CanOntSienna, was the exciter ring on your Escape spinning on the axle? I do not see where exciter rings are available as separate parts for Siennas. The wiring is a kit from etrailer, not something I spliced in. The trailer wiring looks fine from what I can see. With KOEO and KOER, the brake lights (both sides and high mounted) are off when brake pedal is not pressed. So the fault indicator lights at least light up. I turned the Key On, Engine Off (KOEO) and the ABS, VSC and light that looks like a car skidding light up, and then go off. I found in the Manual where the TRAC or VSC button should be, but our van has a blank cover there. I do not think it actually increases stopping distance. It sounds like the ABS motor pulses one time, it is very brief. I disco'd the battery for a couple of hours to reset the system. And I think a dealer tech could easily determine which part of the system is an issue, given that the issue is repeatable. I would assume that the ABS is multi channel, and it pulses each wheel individually. I think is is very good advice to make sure all of the caliper pins are free and operating smoothly, and to check every sensor. I don't think it is traction control, an issue with that system should come up when pulling away from a stop, right? The sensation of increased stopping distance might be just a feeling, and not real (ABS pulsing the brake pedal is usually on snow/ice, and it does take longer to stop then). Or it is going to overshoot the stop sign by a few feet. ABS motor pulses (driver and passenger can hear it) and the sensation is that the van is going to take longer to stop,.brakes feel normal for first 30 feet, then with 10 feet to go.during a normal stop, applying the brakes 40 feet before a stop sign. I would add to the description of the issue as this: So, you can choose to throw parts at the problem by replacing sensors starting with the suspect one to see if that fixes the issue or you can take it to the dealer for a diagnostic. I believe there is a diagnostic test you can do on the sensors to tell if its reading correctly, but I don't know it off the top of my head and I don't even know if it's easily repeatable without some calibrated test equipment. That one with a ball of rust on it sounds like a prime suspect. Assuming the brakes check out, the next part would be the wheel speed sensors. If it feels like you might have uneven or reduced braking, it could be something like sticky slide pins in the calipers or contaminated pads if they got brake grease on the pad surface or on the rotor and it wasn't properly cleaned before reinstalling the caliper. The ABS shouldn't produce a "loss" of braking. If it does, you will have narrowed the problem down. You can try turning it off and seeing if that clears up the issue. It sounds like your traction control is kicking in. You're driving a 13 year-old vehicle, though, so brake issues are common around this age. Is this a known issue? I haven't checked to see if the brake light and ABS lights come on when the Key is ON engine is OFF, to make sure the dash light is not burned out. I test drove it again, issue is still there. When the ABS motor is triggered, the momentary loss of braking is enough to feel like a front wheel. The passenger wheel had a little ball of rust stuck to it, so I thought that might cause a loss of signal when the wheel slowed down. Next I removed the front wheels and cleaned each of the front wheels ABS sensors. I have since replaced pads and rotor at each wheel, but the issue is still there. My theory was that worn, warped rotors were causing the ABS sensor to think the wheel was not turning. When we first noticed the issue the brakes were worn and in need of maintenance. It only lasts for a couple of seconds, and doesn't cause any issue except it makes the driver uneasy. When slowing to a stop normally on dry pavement, using the brake and not coasting, the ABS is triggered each time at approx.
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